New Mexico Central

The Greenside Cafe and the Hounds of Hello

by John Weckerle

Yesterday evening was one of surprises.  The population of New Mexico Central headquarters dropped to one as the primates in the group headed out for dinner at the Greenside Cafe in Cedar Crest.  After an incredibly slow drive along Frost Road (we really do need to install photon torpedoes in the vehicle), we arrived at the Greenside a bit before 6 p.m.  We were seated immediately, and our drink order was taken.  As we waited (not very long) for the beverages, I made casual mention to the other folks at the table of the fact that there seemed to be more people than one might normally expect at that time on a Thursday.  The drinks came, and we placed our order, and chatted as more people entered the restaurant.  Our server, Susan, described the specials in full detail.  The others in the group were unpersuaded.  They knew what they wanted when they walked in the door – a favorite is, after all, a favorite – and ordered the small version of the meatloaf (we have to wonder how many cows it takes to make the large portion).  Your editor, who was persuaded, ordered the Thursday Steamers (clams in a white sauce over pasta) and a cup of the vegetarian soup du jour, a roasted tomato basil soup.  The soup came along, as did more people through the door.  The soup was delicious – a little thicker than some tomato soups, hearty, and properly proportioned.  What we mean by “properly proportioned” is that a cup of soup was ordered, and it came in something that was approximately the size of a cup.  We understand that some restaurants try to be generous with the soup, providing a vat of it when a cup is ordered – but when many of us order a cup of soup before a meal, it’s often because we want a bit of soup before the meal.  Bring a vat when we order a bowl, and that is fine, but a cup is a cup.  We appreciated that the Greenside understands this.

There was a brief pause between the soup and the main course, during which some bread arrived – as did more people, and it was at this time that your editor noticed that there was an above-average percentage of children in the mix. Meanwhile, the Hounds were stirring.

Dinner arrived, and the population in the establishment continued to increase.  The meatloaf was given the usual thumbs up, with added compliments to the vegetables.  The Thursday Steamers were a little confusing at first.  The clams were very tiny – between the size of a nickel and a quarter, perhaps – and there were eight million of them on top of the pasta.  Okay, perhaps not that many, but there seemed to be at least two dozen and possibly more (we didn’t count).  With some trepidation and a fork, I removed the meat from the first clam with the idea of eating it as one might ordinarily eat a “steamer” – one at a time.  The result was visually disappointing – this could never be a reasonable mouthful of shellfish.  Then I looked at the mountain of remaining clams and realized: there’s an intended method to this. A minute or two later, all the clam shells were empty and lying in the bowl provided for the purpose, and the important part of the clams had been stirred into the pasta and sauce.  (At this point, it’s anybody’s guess whether there were more empty shells in the bowl than there were full tables in the restaurant.  People were actually sitting at the counter, and there were kids everywhere.)

We cannot be sure, but it is likely that the Hounds were set loose at right about this time.

And at this point, we should take a moment and discuss the subject of white clam sauce.  There are as many versions of white clam sauce as there are people who make it, and most of them are worth making.  Many are familiar with the wonderful, classic, oil-based clam sauce commonly offered in many top-quality Italian restaurants throughout the nation (your editor worked briefly in a great one in New York). There are other varieties that start with clam broth and work from there.  There are wine- and butter-based versions, and those that are unashamed Alfredo sauces with clams in them (we’re not saying that’s a bad thing, but they really are Alfredo sauce with clams, and we don’t call that clam sauce).  Some have more garlic than others; many have noticeable influences of oregano and/or parsley, and so on. In short, one can apply the moniker of “white clam sauce” to pretty much anything that is a) not a red clam sauce (totally different style) and b;) traditionally served over pasta.  In many cases, the clams are chopped before they are put in the sauce.

Back to the Greenside.  The sauce was of medium consistency and seemed to follow the white wine and garlic path, with a bit of creaminess and what seemed to be some clam broth.  I think I detected Parmesan cheese, as well, and the sauce had just a bit of “heat” on the back end.  In short, this was one outstanding clam sauce.  The consistency was perfect: just thick enough to adhere to the pasta without making it stick together. It was so good that I ate the little that was left over with a spoon.  The clams themselves were the perfect size for the pasta and were perfectly cooked.  It was with great disappointment that I reached the bottom of the bowl.  We now can happily conclude that our previous mishap was truly a one-time affair, and once again give the Greenside our highest recommendation.

At this point the place was packed, and there were even more kids than before.  There is no doubt that the Hounds were on the move by this time.

When our server brought us the ticket, we had to ask the obvious question: “What’s with all the people?”

Well, as it turns out every Thursday is special at the Greenside, and not just because of the clams.  On Thursdays, ten percent of the restaurant’s revenues is donated to one of four area schools: San Antonito, Prince of Peace, A. Montoya, and Roosevelt High School.  As a community service effort, this is just the sort of thing that one likes to see – and judging from the population of the establishment, we’re guessing that the schools are getting a donation each month.  Now that we know, we may be picking Thursdays to stop at the Greenside – and again, not just for the clams.  Those wanting to make sure to support a particular school should call the Greenside to find out which nights line up with which schools.  We salute the Greenside for this effort.

As for the Hounds: we set out for home satisfied and happy.  As we approached the road that leads to our driveway, we saw something dart across the road toward our place.  We assumed it was a coyote, and slowed down as we made the turn in hopes of getting a look.  What we got a look at was two full-grown basset hounds – and perhaps two of the friendliest bassets on the planet. They hopped right in the back door of the van, and we took them home to keep them from harm (we do have coyotes in the neighborhood, after all).  They had tags with phone numbers, and within 10 minutes they were back in the van so that I could take them home. Before I got out of the driveway, I had a basset hound in my lap and another on the front passenger seat.  I wish I had a picture, because this must have been the funniest thing that had happened in the neighborhood that day.  The dogs’ owner certainly got a kick out of it.  And so the evening ended: great food, good service – and a heaping helping of good dog.  We hope to repeat the food part, at least, very soon.

Friday, November 5th, 2010, by John Weckerle and is filed under "Cedar Crest, Restaurants, Reviews ". You can leave a response here. Pinging is currently not allowed.