Setting The Standard
by John Weckerle
Once in a while, now matter how much we like our own local scenery, we need a change of it. With that in mind, last Friday we set out for a spot of dinner in Albuquerque, and decided on the Standard Diner as our destination.
The Standard Diner was featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drives, and Drive-Ins last year, and the video is available on the restaurant’s web site. Located at 320 Central Ave SE, the Standard Diner is located “just east of Downtown Albuquerque” and just a bit west of I-40. The building was originally a Texaco station built in 1938, and was converted to the current restaurant in 2006. Little, if anything, remains to suggest that the structure was originally a service station. The decor manages to convey a certain elegance while retaining some reminders of the “old diner experience,” and the combination of booths and appropriately-spaced tables allows diners to enjoy their meals without living in each others laps. From the acoustic standpoint, another common issue, the Standard does not disappoint; it is possible to have a quiet conversation in which all participants can hear the others speak. The establishment sports plenty of windows, providing natural light and, in some cases, a look out at a relatively attractive street scene. The menu provides plenty of vegetarian and seafood selections – enough to make it difficult for non-meat eaters to make a decision. Meat eaters have nothing to worry about, either; there’s plenty on the menu, and of course the Standard’s Bourbon Butter Burger was specifically featured on the food network.
We began with the Cinnamon Baked Brie, which is served with an apple compote, garlic roasted crostini, and a port wine reduction. This costs $10, but this appetizer is well worth it. With or without the crostini, the brie was excellent, and the port wine reduction combines delightfully with the cinnamon. For the entree, your editor selected the Manhattan Seafood Chowder (shrimp, swordfish, scallops, roasted fennel, and potato frites in tomato clam broth). This was simply delicious, and we find ourselves wondering how anyone could put that much seafood on a plate and get it to the table for $13, much less do such a good job at it. Readers should know that the “potato frites” are actually a small amount of very thin, curly and crispy potatoes, so do not expect French fries with your meal (nor would we have wanted them, in this case). Lucy had the Finer Loaf (Black Angus beef with peppercorn gravy, “smashed” potatoes, and asparagus; $14). This was also reportedly delicious, and your editor tried a couple of bites of the smashed potatoes that had not been in contact with the gravy – again, these were excellent.
A word about dessert – we rarely order it. After an appetizer (something else we seldom eat) and a satisfying meal, the idea of trying to polish off a mountain of something sweet simply does not appeal. However, after we had finished the entrees, our server appeared with a tray full of what appeared to be “display” versions of the desserts. Not so. These were actual desserts – small versions of the sort of things one might order if they were, well, small. With that (and the similarly tiny $3 price tag) in mind, we decided to try one (we unfortunately did not catch the name, but it incorporated chocolate mousse and whipped cream). It was very tasty, not excessively sweet, and just enough for the two of us to enjoy as the finale to the meal.
Service was nothing short of outstanding. The Standard must be treating its people very well, because they all seemed very, very happy to be at work. Our server was cheerful and attentive without being intrusive. Overall, the experience was every bit as good as, and perhaps better than, many of the far more expensive restaurants we’ve visited. We look forward to repeating it.